More like this, please – Demeter Zoltán Tokaji Furmint 2018

This is the wine that I regularly return to to gauge the vintage in Tokaj. Once again it filled me with hope that Tokaj drys might have found the right path. There is a purity and intensity to this wine that silenced my doubts and alleviated my fears.

Here’s my list of the usual suspects: oak overkill, high alcohol, lack of complexity, lack of charm, angular structure, tart malic acid. With this wine none of them would rear their ugly heads. In fact the first words of my tasting notes read „Now, this is delicious”.

The nose is quite complex and expressive offering delicate herbal, sappy notes underpinned by pears and pineapple. The palate is solid and poised, with no rough edges, the focused ripe pear flavours are coupled with some medicinal notes which bring the sweet and tangy elements into perfect balance. The amount of residual sugar couldn’t be better judged (4 g/l). A confident, appealing, even elegant Tokaj Furmint. More like this, please.

6-7 points. It’s competitively priced at 14 euros.

Válasz