Terroirism has swept aside blendism. The stocks of Burgundy and somewhereness soar high above those of Bordeaux and blending varieties. Should one set the task of finding a formula for success in winemaking today to a machine learning algorithm then the results would surely resemble the Burgundian set-up: one white variety + one red variety + worship of the climat. Continue reading “Winning Strategy – Csopak Blaufränkisch”→
I’m a long time proponent of Syrah in Hungary. I believe it’s more suitable for our climate than other French varieties. Syrah could produce some of the country’s best red wines and it could also make captivating everyday wines -Cabernet and Merlot fail on that, among others.
I’m no longer in the habit of trying to make bold hypotheses about the potential quality of a given vintage by carefully monitoring the developments of the vegetation in our garden but the Hungarian reds I have tasted so far clearly suggest that 2017 is a year when premium reds might once again merit attention. This may also be the year when the run of mediocre vintages in Szekszárd had finally come to an end. Continue reading “On the rise – Heimann Kékfrankos 2017”→
Visiting French wine regions? Tons of books are out there to help you. What if you are about to explore the uncovered part of the wine world, like Croatia or Hungary? Here is a helping hand: let me introduce you Exotic Wine Travel and the latest addition to their Visitor-Friendly Guide series, “Discover Hungarian Wine”. I caught up with Matthew Horkey, one of the two authors, to learn about the book and the motivation behind it. Continue reading “Discover Hungarian Wine: A Visitor-Friendly Guide – new book on Hungarian wine”→
When I first tried to rationalize my impression of this wine being an empty shell, I thought either terroir or concept must have gone AWOL. Then I thought maybe none of them are missing, it’s just that they are both nondescript. All this belated and awkward rationalization was a consequence of my left hemisphere trying to come to terms with the fact that for the very first time the word ’soulless’ has cropped up in my tasting notes. Continue reading “Soulless – Gere A. Syrah 2017”→
I’m as happy as the next guy to find a good wine with reasonable price. However once in a blue moon the wine is more than good and the price is less than reasonable and this is when my happiness gets laced with remorse: I feel sorry for the winemaker, as if the world has let him/her down by failing to appreciate their achievements. I feel like witnessing a mugging and then helping myself to the spoils left around. Continue reading “Going for a song – Tornai Prémium Juhfark 2017”→
For all I know there may be better, bigger, more important furmints around but this is certainly the one I enjoyed the most in recent years. In fact I’m starting to believe that dry furmint has got the potential to stand up to the in-form second-tier whites of today (albarino, godello, vermentino, falanghina, carricante and the likes). Continue reading “Controlled power – Laposa Furmint „Kőkövön” 2017”→