Classic cabernet – Kiss Gábor Code 2016

Kiss Gábor (fotó: bortarsasag.hu)

I have always had a soft spot for Gábor Kiss’s reds but it never meant uncritical acceptance. Like with most other Pannonian winemakers the name in itself is no guarantee for year in, year out consistency (and by consistency I don’t mean ironing out vintage differencies). Let’s just say that when I’m looking for a proper Villány wine I always start with Wassmann and Kiss Gábor. “Classic cabernet – Kiss Gábor Code 2016” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Fruit reinstated – Demeter Zoltán Tokaji Furmint 2017

Zoltán Demeter’s estate wine is cast in the mould of German rieslings and is a precise, linear furmint with unusually bright fruit flavours for the variety. The 8 gram residual sugar is beautifully integrated and is barely noticeable. Anyway, I have a penchant for the grey zone where dry meets off-dry and to my mind a Tokaj furmint without RS is like potato chips without salt. “Fruit reinstated – Demeter Zoltán Tokaji Furmint 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Pretty skeleton in the cupboard – Oremus Pinot Noir 2016

Should you have a fixation with pricier Hungarian pinot noirs then this is not a bad choice to indulge in your obsession. It ticks more boxes than you pay for: a once in a lifetime chance to grab a limited edition Tokaj red with an intriguing background story and a mysterious label. The wine itself is actually perfectly servicable, and it even shows some Burgundy character which is more than one could say about most Hungarian pinot noirs. “Pretty skeleton in the cupboard – Oremus Pinot Noir 2016” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Crazy science – Villa Tolnay Mozaik 2016

Mixing up your Burgundy with a Bordeaux can be painfully embarrassing but it is not a crime (see footnote). Blending cabernet and pinot noir on purpose however is a serious offence and ever since Code Napoléon there has been a law against it. Similarly expect to be turned back at the French border if the records show that you are a producer of blends mixing chardonnay with riesling. I am not exactly sure if there are sanctions against this kind of shenaningans but I was stopped in my tracks when I saw that Villa Tolnay blends Burgundy with Loire, oak with clay. “Crazy science – Villa Tolnay Mozaik 2016” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Balancing act – Disznókő Inspiration Dry 2017

Not sure it means anything if I sing the praise of a Tokaj furmint. Of course in my heart of hearts I am convinced that the answer is ’yes’, but there is a practical doubt not easy to dismiss: if I were intent on discovering let’s say loureiro I would much rather rely on the recommendations of someone who loves this variety than someone who is sceptical about its merits.  “Balancing act – Disznókő Inspiration Dry 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Pet – Sabar Olaszrizling Birtokbor 2017

When you fall in love with something it’s a bit like adopting it. Not the best stance for a critic but I have comforted myself by the thought that it’s a sign of still being passionate about wine. I loved the 2016 Sabar Olaszrizling so much that not only have I emptied at least a dozen bottles over the last 18 months but I have also got protective about it: I was frightened by the idea that some people might diss it. The 2017 lets me out from this self-imposed cage of affection. “Pet – Sabar Olaszrizling Birtokbor 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Trend-bucker – AÉS Egri Kadarka Superior 2017

Ferenc Csutorás is one of the most exciting Eger winemakers. He is a living and breathing wikipedia of Hungarian winemaking and an honest and often critical commentator of his wine region. Almagyar-Érseki Vineyards and Winery is a revitalized and expanded successor to the family business, the result of three friends’ joint efforts. (You can find out more about the name here, and about the collaboration of like minds here). “Trend-bucker – AÉS Egri Kadarka Superior 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Fashionably unfashionable – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2016

Hungarian chardonnay is dead as dead can be. Long gone are the times when we were dreaming of Kovászó (St. Andrea) or Landord (Légli Ottó) the erstwhile elite of Hungary’s attempt to naturalize „the world’s greatest white variety”. Actually it’s so out of fashion that it may soon be back in fashion. “Fashionably unfashionable – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2016” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése