Masterwork of a lesser master – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2017

Sándor Mérész seems to have hit upon the right formula for producing more than decent chardonnay in Hungary. Though the summer of 2017 could be described as a series of heatwaves this wine shows no signs of stress or overripeness. In fact, the balance is well-nigh perfect and the intensity cannot be faulted either. “Masterwork of a lesser master – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Liquid rocks – Györgykovács Nagy-Somlói Olaszrizling 2016

Imre Györgykovács (photo: www.bortarsasag.hu)

For the English speaking world there is no better guide to the wines of Somló than Alder Yarrow. His enthusiasm for the region which was ignited by the rare and highly distinctive juhfark variety seems to have no boundaries. In 2016 he returned to Hungary to explore Somló. In the process he has even managed to come up with an original and quite plausible explanation for the individuality of Somló wines (check the section on spring waters). “Liquid rocks – Györgykovács Nagy-Somlói Olaszrizling 2016” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Delicious – Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Kirchthal 2017

Last year I asked Bernhard Ott why he has turned his back on Qvevre which I considered to be a unique and highly satisfying exploration of the soul and core of grüner veltliner. He said that the ancient technique of whole bunch fermentation and long ageing in amphorae dug into the ground had a homogenizing effect erasing the elusive terroir features and at the present stage of his learning curve he could see nothing more important than to produce elegant, transparent wines able to reflect the individuality of his vineyards. “Delicious – Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Kirchthal 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Blackberry meets umami – Clos de los Siete 2015

Though there might have been a time when the prospect of Michel Rolland carrying out Robert Parker’s diabolic plans to globalize and homogenize the world of wine seemed real I for one have hardly ever tasted wines made by him or made to conform to his recipe. However there is one wine that has his name written all over it and I’ve been following ever since it was first introduced in Hungary. This wine not only has made an incredible turnaround but seems to improve with every vintage. “Blackberry meets umami – Clos de los Siete 2015” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Top-notch Blaufränkisch – Homola Kékfrankos 2015

An unexpected gift. On the one hand Lake Balaton has never been high on my search list when looking for a great bottle of kékfrankos, on the other hand had it not been on sale at half price (clearance before the new vintage hit the shelves) I would never have given it a thought. As it happened, I bought a bottle, tasted it the same day and returned the next day for the remaining stock (3 bottles in all). “Top-notch Blaufränkisch – Homola Kékfrankos 2015” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Reasons to be cheerful – Alte Keller Szendehely Zweigelt 2017

I wasn’t exactly over the moon when I realized that as none of my fellow bloggers showed any interest in tasting a zweigelt made by a no-name winery in a non-wine region the unenviable task of assessing the wine and then in all likelihood crushing the dreams of a young winemaker fell on me. It took me some weeks to pluck up my courage and take the plunge. “Reasons to be cheerful – Alte Keller Szendehely Zweigelt 2017” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése

Stylish – Ch de Fonbel 2015 St-Émilion

A merlot of good provenance, from a good vintage, at just about affordable price but safely above the danger zone. The owner is Alain Vauthier of Ch Ausone fame, the region is St-Émilion, the vintage is the first „vintage of the century” since 2010, the price is around €30. With the 2016 Ch Pey la Tour failing to cut the mustard and thus losing the title of the cheapest visual aid for „Bordeaux for Dummies” courses, Fonbel is a good candidate to fill the vacancy. “Stylish – Ch de Fonbel 2015 St-Émilion” A teljes bejegyzés megtekintése