Controlled power – Laposa Furmint „Kőkövön” 2017

For all I know there may be better, bigger, more important furmints around but this is certainly the one I enjoyed the most in recent years. In fact I’m starting to believe that dry furmint has got the potential to stand up to the in-form second-tier whites of today (albarino, godello, vermentino, falanghina, carricante and the likes).

The Laposa Kőkövön comes from Köves-hegy in the Káli Basin and shows really clever winemaking. 30% aged in oak the rest in stainless steel which on this evidence seems to be just spot on. Kőkövön is a wine that manages to walk the thin line between elegance and power.

It opens with subtle oak complemented by flinty, mineral and smoky notes. There is some orchard fruit in the background but nothing definite. The palate is viscous, savoury, tangy, saline with a mineral-edged intensity and a faultless balance. It’s not unlike a properly ripe Somló juhfark. The excellent acidity adds length and vibrancy. It is round, ripe and polished but still retains the power, the bite, the rustic character of the variety. The whole package is most satisfying.

7 points and at just 10 euros this would give any Tokaj Furmint a run for its money.