Magyarország legrégebbi, független borblogja 2005 óta. Ami a szívünkön, az a szánkon.
The previous vintage of this wine was one of my favourite Hungarian whites in 2018. Considering how great 2016 proved to be for quality whites in Hungary (and in Austria) I had every reason to hope for something extraordinary. Alas, this wine is not the anticipated step forward. Continue reading “Lamb – Kreinbacher Juhfark Selection 2016”
The retasting of some of the 2016s fully justified my high hopes for the Csopak Kódex wines so I was in bullish mood when our little circle set off for the 6 wine flight. Were my expectations fulfilled? Yes and no. Continue reading “Older and wiser – Csopaki Kódex 2017”
I’m not sure I’ve tasted a single Hungarian red from 2013 that I was happy with (or for that matter from 2015). I know that in Szekszárd it was long spells of rain in September that ruined an otherwise promising vintage so I wasn’t really expecting the Vidas to come out with their top wine. Continue reading “Integrity unharmed – Vida La Vida 2013”
A regional hybrid: harvested in Sopron, vinified in Etyek. Sounds risky but the wine is faultless. Was named the best Hungarian kékfrankos (blaufränkisch) at some domestic wine competiton and won bronze at Decanter World Wine Awards scoring 88 points. Continue reading “Dressed in Oak – Etyeki Kúria Kékfrankos 2015”
I have always had a soft spot for Gábor Kiss’s reds but it never meant uncritical acceptance. Like with most other Pannonian winemakers the name in itself is no guarantee for year in, year out consistency (and by consistency I don’t mean ironing out vintage differencies). Let’s just say that when I’m looking for a proper Villány wine I always start with Wassmann and Kiss Gábor. Continue reading “Classic cabernet – Kiss Gábor Code 2016”
The profile is hugely contemporary. It is brimming with fruit, but also shows that clarity and edge of acidity that today’s more sophisticated wine drinkers crave. It is moderate in alcohol and its food matching credentials are impeccable. Continue reading “Spring in its step – Rókusfalvy Fresküvé 2018”
Zoltán Demeter’s estate wine is cast in the mould of German rieslings and is a precise, linear furmint with unusually bright fruit flavours for the variety. The 8 gram residual sugar is beautifully integrated and is barely noticeable. Anyway, I have a penchant for the grey zone where dry meets off-dry and to my mind a Tokaj furmint without RS is like potato chips without salt. Continue reading “Fruit reinstated – Demeter Zoltán Tokaji Furmint 2017”
Should you have a fixation with pricier Hungarian pinot noirs then this is not a bad choice to indulge in your obsession. It ticks more boxes than you pay for: a once in a lifetime chance to grab a limited edition Tokaj red with an intriguing background story and a mysterious label. The wine itself is actually perfectly servicable, and it even shows some Burgundy character which is more than one could say about most Hungarian pinot noirs. Continue reading “Pretty skeleton in the cupboard – Oremus Pinot Noir 2016”
Mixing up your Burgundy with a Bordeaux can be painfully embarrassing but it is not a crime (see footnote). Blending cabernet and pinot noir on purpose however is a serious offence and ever since Code Napoléon there has been a law against it. Similarly expect to be turned back at the French border if the records show that you are a producer of blends mixing chardonnay with riesling. I am not exactly sure if there are sanctions against this kind of shenaningans but I was stopped in my tracks when I saw that Villa Tolnay blends Burgundy with Loire, oak with clay. Continue reading “Crazy science – Villa Tolnay Mozaik 2016”
Not sure it means anything if I sing the praise of a Tokaj furmint. Of course in my heart of hearts I am convinced that the answer is ’yes’, but there is a practical doubt not easy to dismiss: if I were intent on discovering let’s say loureiro I would much rather rely on the recommendations of someone who loves this variety than someone who is sceptical about its merits. Continue reading “Balancing act – Disznókő Inspiration Dry 2017”
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