Lamb – Kreinbacher Juhfark Selection 2016

The previous vintage of this wine was one of my favourite Hungarian whites in 2018. Considering how great 2016 proved to be for quality whites in Hungary (and in Austria) I had every reason to hope for something extraordinary. Alas, this wine is not the anticipated step forward.  

The best whites of 2016 combine good ripeness and fruit precision with tension and punch. With this wine I had the impression that the winemaker was wary of the often edgy acidity of Juhfark and did his best to rein it in with barrel ageing. He has won and it’s our loss.

The boldness of the variety – sometimes bordering on rudeness – has been tamed to a level bordering on boredom. The subdued nose is honeyed and savoury with some orchard fruit seen through a screen of roasted peanuts and cellulose pulp. Full-bodied, viscous, dense and tannic but with a definite lack of energy. Though the acidity is there it just grips without lift. A big wine without real tension and drive. For me, this is a glass half empty.

5 points and 15 euros.