This wine perfectly illustrates why my enthusiasm for German rieslings has somewhat cooled off recently. I have always believed that for any aspiring riesling fan the major obstacle to overcome was the piercing acidity. When the blow is cushioned by the right amount of residual sugar or the wine itself is big enough to accommodate it then of course the very same acidity can be exhilarating. However when in leaner years leaner wines are fermented bone dry then the acidity can be overbearing, even painful. Years ago as an aspiring riesling fan I was ready to sacrifice or at least re-calibrate the notion of balance and be overly permissive when it came to acidity. That’s no longer the case.
The Dönnhoff Riesling 2016 Trocken is a perfectly servicable wine but not a great calling card for the „Domaine de la Romanée Conti of Nahe” (Neil Martin). Simply put it’s out of balance. Not unbearably so, but it is still true that the moment you smell it you start salivating.
The nose is fairly typical, offering lime, tangerine, ginger, citrus, quince and gun flint. The palate is taut and energetic and it’s not easy to appreciate any other features after the onslaught of acidity. It doesn’t have the length, the body, the fruit to stand up to this level of citrusy brightness. Strictly for seasoned riesling-fans and preferably with some food. (For much more favourable reviews click here.)
4-5 points and HUF 4300 or HUF 3440 depending on your status.