Category: English

Pet – Sabar Olaszrizling Birtokbor 2017

~ Alföldi Merlot

When you fall in love with something it’s a bit like adopting it. Not the best stance for a critic but I have comforted myself by the thought that it’s a sign of still being passionate about wine. I loved the 2016 Sabar Olaszrizling so much that not only have I emptied at least a dozen bottles over the last 18 months but I have also got protective about it: I was frightened by the idea that some people might diss it. The 2017 lets me out from this self-imposed cage of affection. Continue reading “Pet – Sabar Olaszrizling Birtokbor 2017” →

Trend-bucker – AÉS Egri Kadarka Superior 2017

~ Alföldi Merlot

Ferenc Csutorás is one of the most exciting Eger winemakers. He is a living and breathing wikipedia of Hungarian winemaking and an honest and often critical commentator of his wine region. Almagyar-Érseki Vineyards and Winery is a revitalized and expanded successor to the family business, the result of three friends’ joint efforts. (You can find out more about the name here, and about the collaboration of like minds here). Continue reading “Trend-bucker – AÉS Egri Kadarka Superior 2017” →

Fashionably unfashionable – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2016

~ Alföldi Merlot

Hungarian chardonnay is dead as dead can be. Long gone are the times when we were dreaming of Kovászó (St. Andrea) or Landord (Légli Ottó) the erstwhile elite of Hungary’s attempt to naturalize „the world’s greatest white variety”. Actually it’s so out of fashion that it may soon be back in fashion. Continue reading “Fashionably unfashionable – Etyeki Kúria Chardonnay 2016” →

Fortress – Heimann Szekszárd Grand 2012

~ Alföldi Merlot

“Szekszárd Grand, what’s that?”, I hear you asking. It’s a new category which was probably dreamed up as some sort of glorified outlet for top quality cabernets produced in Szekszárd. I don’t think it’s a particularly good idea or that it will be a long-lived one. However the Heimann Szekszárd Grand is a huge wine which might even prove to be great in the long run. Continue reading “Fortress – Heimann Szekszárd Grand 2012” →

Granny is back – Pátzay Bazaltkő Rizling 2017

~ Alföldi Merlot

Until recently I was unaware that the award-winning/much-maligned winery of the fatally flawed Laposa/Bazaltbor project has been purchased by the CEO of Veritas, István Pátzay and it now functions as the HQ of Villa Pátzay. In case you missed the acrimonious Laposa/Bazaltbor divorce, click here , and if you want to know more about Villa Pátzay, click here. Continue reading “Granny is back – Pátzay Bazaltkő Rizling 2017” →

Taking no prisoners – Dönnhoff Riesling 2016 Trocken

~ Alföldi Merlot

This wine perfectly illustrates why my enthusiasm for German rieslings has somewhat cooled off recently. I have always believed that for any aspiring riesling fan the major obstacle to overcome was the piercing acidity. When the blow is cushioned by the right amount of residual sugar or the wine itself is big enough to accommodate it then of course the very same acidity can be exhilarating. However when in leaner years leaner wines are fermented bone dry then the acidity can be overbearing, even painful. Years ago as an aspiring riesling fan I was ready to sacrifice or at least re-calibrate the notion of balance and be overly permissive when it came to acidity. That’s no longer the case. Continue reading “Taking no prisoners – Dönnhoff Riesling 2016 Trocken” →

Lanky Nyakas – Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet Rajnai Rizling 2017

~ Alföldi Merlot

With its last two vintages the winery’s top of the range riesling, Prior, somewhat unexpectedly, has managed to consolidate its position among the best Hungarian whites. In 2017 no Prior was made and in similar situations the winery’s loss may turn out to be the budget conscious customer’s gain, as the grapes destined for the high-end wine end up in the cheaper bottling. Continue reading “Lanky Nyakas – Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet Rajnai Rizling 2017” →