Blackberry meets umami – Clos de los Siete 2015

Though there might have been a time when the prospect of Michel Rolland carrying out Robert Parker’s diabolic plans to globalize and homogenize the world of wine seemed real I for one have hardly ever tasted wines made by him or made to conform to his recipe. However there is one wine that has his name written all over it and I’ve been following ever since it was first introduced in Hungary. This wine not only has made an incredible turnaround but seems to improve with every vintage.

Clos de los Siete is a French „island” in Argentina with 7 owners and 850 ha of vineyards. Rolland is one of the owners and he is also the chief winemaker. The 2015 Clos de los Siete is 60% malbec, while the rest is made up of Bdx varieties and syrah.

Top value (photo:

The complex and exciting nose shows hints of soy sauce, blackberries, cigar box, flowers and medlars. The mid-weight palate displays excellent balance and structure with good tension between the sweet core of fruit and saline, savoury, umami notes. The finish is layered, refreshing and long. The wet summer may have a hand in this but there is nothing „new worldish” about it and seems to belie the early objections against Rolland’s style (oak overkill, high alcohol, overextraction etc.). It’s got personality, it’s elegant and delicious. What’s not to like?

Some years ago all wines had to be marketed as ’mineral’. I wonder if ‘umami’ could achieve the same glorified status but if it does then this wine is destined to be a frontrunner.

7-8 points and for anyone looking for a Bdx blend this should be very high on their shopping list. At 20 euros this deserves the “best buy” moniker.